Wednesday, October 10

Buy Coffee, Feel Good

Hi again gang. Every week I get a nice email from our roaster, Intelligentsia, telling of their tales around the world. I thought maybe I would share this one with you. Mostly because it is exciting to see Direct Trade in action in Africa. This is indeed good news since a lot of coffee growers in Africa are not able to send their kids to school because the prices they are paid are so low. Intelligentsia is changing that. And by buying Intelligentsia roasted coffee beans Everyday Joe's is changing that. And by buying your coffee and lattes from Everyday Joe's you are changing that.

Now come down to Everyday Joe's, buy yourself a coffee, and feel good. Now on to the email:

Hola:

A warm 4 AM greeting to all who enjoy Intelligentsia Direct Trade Coffee. While international travel can be a wonderful experience, you may have experienced the costs in terms of a disrupted internal clock. I just returned to Los Angeles yesterday after traveling 27 straight hours from Addis Ababa Ethiopia, and now my body tells me that it’s time for an Injara lunch!

My week in Ethiopia was an enjoyable and challenging time spent working on contracts for two new Direct Trade coffees from Yirgacheffe (late spring and early summer 2008 releases). Both exporting providers were very enthusiastic in providing the first ever small-farmer, traceable coffees from Ethiopia. Normally the individual small-farmer lot is blended into anonymity and we just receive coffee that says "Yirgacheffe Grade 1".

In our Direct Trade model, we employ tracking systems with our providers that allow us to ensure that the individual farmer is economically rewarded for his stellar efforts at pre-agreed upon prices. While normally only the 37,500 pound container is tracked, in some instances our work could involve as little as 100 lbs of coffee. While this system seems simple at first, in actuality it becomes very complex. Most of our week was spent grappling with issues of system deployment. Once again the vital importance of having trustworthy trading partners at origin who are willing and able to partner in this sustainable trade was impressed upon me.

Don’t think that it was all work, however. I joyfully spent one day hiking up to the coffee village of Banko Okoto in Yirgacheffe. As is common in many coffee producing origins, there was a network of muddy paths leading up the mountain and splitting off to plots of land. The chilly damp trail was spotted with a few traditional grass roofed homes, coffee farms and lush natural forests. When we started hiking we were at 6400 feet, and the top of the ridge was 6927 feet! Staring from the top and checking my GPS, I realized that this is probably one of the highest-growing coffee regions in the world. Very few places in the world grow coffee at over 6,000 feet in elevation. Have you ever wondered why Yirgacheffe has this identifiable bright lemon grass flavor? I’m confident in saying that much of this flavor is the result of extremely high altitude coffee farming.

On our way down the hillside we came upon villagers who were hiking up the hillside on their way to the cemetery. They were carrying the casket of a five year old boy who died. When we asked what happened, they simply said he was sick. Without access to doctors, this is sadly about as specific as many coffee farmers can get to a diagnosis.

On the other hand, I was impressed at that moment because in their walking wake they were singing a lament the whole way up the trail, and it was obvious the casket was freshly hand-made. The thought hit me that these people "make" just about everything. They make their food from mini gardens to meals. They make their music from silence and create incredible harmony, drums and dancing. They make their adobe and grass roofed homes from materials at hand. They make their foot trails. They even make their own caskets. They truly live in a world of "makers".

I look forward to inviting you to make a cup of Direct Trade Ethiopian coffee this spring. For now, might I suggest our El Cuervo from Guatemala. This coffee is one of our most recent arrivals to our Roasting Works and the red fruit flavors are bursting from the cup.


Onward,

K.C. O'Keefe
Director of West Coast Operations
Green Coffee Buyer
Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea

1 comment:

Maggie Canty said...

I don't know if reading that makes me want to buy a cup of coffee. I feel like I should instead go start a garden, grow beans and harvest my own...
But that'd be a lot more work.